Friday, July 17, 2009

A Dad, A Beerhouse, and Charm.

Cultural conflation makes San Francisco’s genome a round entity. And yes, you can say that about many metropolitan cities. It’s the lushness of California and the accessibility of fresh, organic, and sustainable products that sets San Francisco apart from other cities. This advantage highlights and regulates Northern Californian gastronomy in concept, flare, and execution. The gastro pub concept has inked its way through and into San Franciscan tradition with attention to craft and artisanal beer and bright, honest, and locally produced food.

The gastro pub in concept mirrors the Japanese izakaya concept. And it’s the Izakaya that is hard to find in San Francisco where beer and sake are complimented by authentic, home-inspired, and simple Japanese eats. The izakaya tradition exudes soul and unpretentiousness. Where sushi is fluid and complex and often luxurious, izakaya lacks façade and smoke screens. Yet most significantly, it is hearty and in the vein of soul food.

A true gem, Oyaji is located on 3212 Clement Street, in between 33rd and 34th avenues, in the Outer Richmond District. The 'Dad' (which Oyaji essentially means) would be Hideki Makiyama, chef and owner. While he has a full sushi bar, stock full of wonderfully fresh treats, I journey here for the dishes that honor the lore of izakayas. Hoshiebi kakiage consists of shrimp rolled up into a patty with vegetables to make a savory deep fried dumpling shrimp cake. I enjoy the aigamo which is duck meat marinated, grilled, and accompanied with yakitori sauce. The menchi korokke is perhaps my favorite. It’s a combination of minced beef intertwined with potatoes and onions, egg, and rolled up into a ball and deep fried. Off the menu on a particular night, I’ve had jack smelt lightly fried crisply and accessorized with lemon and ponzu sauce. The Japanese deep fry in a way where you never give second thought to the amount of grease or weight of a single dish because everything is done lightly and airily. The gindara kasuzuke is a a fatty cod grilled to smoky perfection and glazed with a kasuzuke sauce which is prepared with the water leftover from the distillation process of sake. Each charred and flaky piece is infused with a subtle rice wine flavor and the texture of the fish is buttery and rich.

When you go, make sure to sit at the sushi bar. Makiyama, as a welcoming ‘dad’ would, enjoys making his guests feel comfortable in his home. Drink with him. Cheer with him. He jubilates in his guests’ contentment.

Unfortunately, I was unable to recover any of the pictures that I took. But continuing along with this ode to izakaya and just for giggles, here are some pics that I took of the delectable snacks that I had while visiting another izakaya, this time in Vancouver, British Colombia….Kitanoya-Guu. Eat your heart out.

Ahi Tuna Sashimi Steak


Deep Fried Pumpkin Croquette with Egg


Fresh Beef Sashimi Carpaccio w/ tomato ginger sauce and mustard mayonaisse


Salmon Sashimi Yukke w/ Garlic Soy


Grilled Pork Cheeks and Green Onions w/ Ponzu


Grilled Beef Tongue w/ Salt & Pepper


Deep Fried Prawns with Spicy Mayo


Baked Minced Beef, Mushrooms, Onions, w/ Garlic Tomato Sauce Rice Gratin


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